The idea of being genderless is raging in the fashion world, as is seen in a show in Paris for H&M. [Photo provided to China Daily]

"I don't think it's a fad. I think it's cultural," says Mary Wilson, assistant chair for fashion design art at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City.

"I think it's an evolution of society itself. Look at how we're almost becoming genderless in terms of identity outside of clothing. So maybe sooner than later we'll be looking at each other as individuals and not as segmenting who we are by what we're wearing."

She's noticed a gradual shift on campus.

"Students of Generation Z are asking to be allowed to design without being restricted by the traditional rules of gender," she says.

Even brands that don't identify collections as gender-fluid see the benefit of offering neutral pieces that invite the customer to choose how they're styled. The Edie Company－a go-to e-commerce brand for fuss-free V-neck tees, shirts, sleeved pullovers and casual dresses－is rooted in three philosophies: to be timeless/neutral, comfortable and a blank canvas.

"These components mean something different to everyone, based on what they're looking for," says the company founder Victoria Lopez. "It's about creating options for everyone."

Some gender-fluid fashion statements fall flat. Supermodel Gigi Hadid and her boyfriend, singer-songwriter Zayn Malik, outfitted in print-mixing Gucci suits, appeared on the cover of Vogue's August issue. Inside, the pair dished on gender bending.

"It's not about gender. It's about, like, shapes, and what feels good on you that day. And anyway, it's fun to experiment," Hadid says.

Malik adds that when he likes a shirt of hers, he just borrows it. "If it's tight on me, so what? It doesn't matter if it was made for a girl."

The magazine experienced a backlash, with many labeling the feature an example of appropriation. Genderqueer writer Jacob Tobia penned an editorial for Cosmopolitan that called it an elitist attempt to be "edgy".

"What's so annoying about this new and sanitized 'gender progressive' aesthetic is that it curates gender-fluid identities for those in the cultural elite in a way that totally whitewashes the lived experiences of gender-nonconforming people.

"Unlike how this new Vogue cover shoot presents it, the lived experience of being gender-nonconforming is rarely that fun and glamorous."

Vogue followed with an apology, stating that it "missed the mark" and looks forward to continuing the conversation－"with greater sensitivity".

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