Adjusting

Many residents initially welcomed the idea of the walls but have become more critical over time. Some say they were not consulted enough in the planning stages or that money spent on the walls has meant that other rebuilding, such as housing, has fallen behind.

Others worry the walls will damage tourism.

"About 50 years ago, we came up here with the kids and enjoyed drives along the beautiful ocean and bays," said Reiko Iijima, a tourist from central Japan, who was eating at an oyster restaurant across from the sea wall.

"Now, there's not even a trace of that."

Part of a wall in the city of Kesennuma, further south, has windows in it - but these, too, draw complaints.

Fisherman Atsushi Fujita said that while the tsunami had improved oyster farming in the area by stirring up seafloor and removing accumulated sludge, the sea walls could block natural water flows from the land and impact future production.

"I can't say things like 'the wall should be lower' or 'we don't need it,'" said Katsuhiro Hatakeyama, who has rebuilt his bed-and-breakfast business in the same location as before. "It's thanks to the wall that I could rebuild, and now have a job."

But many find the wall hard to adjust to.

"Everyone here has lived with the sea, through generations," said Sotaro Usui, head of a tuna supply company. "The wall keeps us apart - and that's unbearable."

Reuters