Tapping into the enduring popularity of noodles in Japan, Jinyangfanzhuang opened a subbranch in Tokyo in 1983, followed by two other branches in the city over the next few years.

In 2001, Ma was sent to work in the main Tokyo outlet for two years.

"The customers loved our noodles, especially our sliced noodle dishes," says Ma. "There was one time during a conference when people lined up around the block for them. After the event, the pastry chef said he couldn't summon up the energy to slice up another bowl of noodles."

The Tokyo branches closed in 2005 after their partner in Japan closed its restaurant businesses, but according to Ma, they are looking for new partners to spread their brand around the world.

The customer base at Jinyangfanzhuang is mostly middle aged, as they like to enjoy the flavors they had when they were kids and often bring their families with them. However, the old-fashioned restaurant seems less attractive to younger diners.

"It's a common problem among many of China's time-honored brands, but we are working on it. We're trying to adjust our menus and service to attract more customers born in the 1980s and '90s. They are the main driving force in the market now," says Ma.