Chengdu, reaching Sichuan's capital by railway
Next morning a beautiful day dawned and after breakfast I walked down Renmin Road before coming upon a side alley, Wenshuyuan Street. It was lined with brightly filled stalls trading incense sticks, small statues, “funny money” and much more. With curiosity I followed the lane, partly crowded with pedicabs before finding the entrance to the most famed Buddhist temple complex in Chengdu, the Wenshu Yuan. Dating from the Tang Dynasty, it remains the city’s largest and best preserved. Originally called the Xinxiang Temple, it was renamed after a Buddhist monk who resided there during the late 17th century. Only a few days after leaving my native Scotland, there I was strolling around with ever increasing fascination. So many candles and incense sticks flickered or burned resulting in strong aromas. Crowds of visitors holding bundles of such sticks placed them upright into large circular cauldrons embossed with coiling dragons. Dark corridors led between halls lit only by candles or oil lamps revealing large statues and exquisite relief carvings. In the subdued light monks quietly chanted. Spending considerable time immersed within this atmospheric scene I eventually came upon a teahouse within the temple grounds. One of the largest and most bustling in Chengdu it was a place again to pull up a chair, have tea which then cost one yuan per pot and simply people watch while the enticing aromas from an adjacent vegetarian restaurant drifted past.
In 2017, I stayed several nights at the now beautifully refurbished Tibet Hotel - its calm, luxurious feeling and decor almost inducing me to return to Lhasa. Resisting that temptation I strolled down Renmin Lu to revisit Wenshu Yuan Temple. The many stalls that once lined the alley had been relocated into a neighboring tourist street. The temple however retained its charms and feelings from 23 years previously. Visiting it twice I wandered slowly, capturing monochrome images of the gardens, halls and visitors including some Buddhist monks who were returning live fish to the waters. The teahouse was just as enchanting as ever, although it had been refurbished; now including a delightful coffee shop. In the gardens I met a group of local students dressed up in periodic costumes who invited me to sit with them and share their snacks. A delightful experience as was the vegetarian restaurant where I spent an afternoon enjoying spicy fresh vegetable hotpot. I again felt enticed to stay longer in Chengdu, if only I could.
