The Chinese capital's summer climate is very close to that of the Mediterranean, Mansuy says, and herbs such as oregano, sage and bay leaf that he used in southern Europe can easily be grown in Beijing. With its recently introduced winter menu The Roots has given a nod to northern Europe, using cold-weather herbs such as fennel and garlic and onions and pickles.

The Roots also stands out from the pack with its care for the environment in the way it produces its food. Mansuy says the restaurant is picky about who it works with, opting for nearby farm suppliers that are environmentally friendly with carbon neutral vegetables and pesticide-free produce.

For take-aways and online orders, the restaurant provides only biodegradable plastic bags that degrade within three years.

"This is not merely a marketing ploy. It's early days, and many people may not appreciate what we're doing, but I hope to raise awareness about eating in a manner that takes account of nature and the environment."

Mansuy says he grew up on a farm in France and learned from a young age about aspects of gardening such as pruning plants and dealing with weeds. So when the local estate in Yizhuang granted him free rein over 600-square-meter plot adjacent to the restaurant last winter he was more than delighted to pitch in.