"The exams for Gexi Lharangba are extremely difficult, so applicants must be very knowledgeable about Tibetan Buddhism," said Lozangpal Trinleychusang, deputy director of the exam committee.

Thanks to the significant improvement in Tibet's transportation infrastructure, a growing number of lamas from remote monasteries are taking the exams, he added. At the most recent exams, the youngest applicant was 30, while the oldest was 51.

Almost every year, lamas from Tashihunpo successfully gain the title. A monk named Lobsang sat the six-day written theory exams for the Gexi Lharangba title in July. Last month, he and 11 other lamas passed the debating exam and were accredited as Gexi Lharangba.

"There aren't many hairs left after more than 30 years of study," the 44-year-old laughed, pointing to his head. "For a lama, studying Tibetan Buddhism is a lifelong journey."

Moving forward

Dawa stood outside the Tsogchen Hall courtyard and looked down at a construction site at the foot of the mountain.

"When it is completed, that building will be a modern academy for Tibetan Buddhism run by the monastery as a branch of the Tibet Buddhist College. It will provide regular classes for lamas in Shigatse so they can be educated by Tashihunpo's top masters," he said.

"Although the teaching methods and equipment will be modern at the new academy, the education provided at the monastery must stick to tradition," he added, as the sound of lamas' chanting scriptures lingered in the air and the sunset illuminated the golden roofs of the temples - something that hasn't changed for centuries.