Fashion brands often talk about melding a fusion of East and West without ever delivering a practical, identifiable gain-line in the cultural crossover. But a relatively new kid on the block, London- and Shanghai-based womenswear label Samuel Gui Yang, helmed by Shenzhen-born Samuel Yang and Stockholm-born Erik Litzén, is a delightful exception to that rule. The two designers mix and merge Chinese and Western codes, as well as historic and contemporary references, in creating a language that both fits and challenges today's fast-changing fashion dynamic.

With training at Acne and Jonathan Anderson behind them, the two designers meticulously focus on construction and fabrication to create pragmatic wardrobes imbued with strong character and a sense of mystery. Such heft caught the eye of the judges for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers 2020, for which the pair were shortlisted. (The final was cancelled due to the pandemic.)