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Threading together culture and modernity

Within stitches, embroiderers celebrate timeless grace and boundless creativity of needlework, Lin Qi reports.

By Lin Qi | China Daily | Updated: 2024-11-09 11:52
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Master artisan of Su embroidery Fu Jian,37.[Photo by Wang Qiqi/China Daily]

Generations of artisans have invented a variety of stitching methods. It is believed that more than 50 types of stitching are applied today.

Hu's studio focuses on one unique stitch called dazi, or "making seeds" — the method makes small, even-raised knot patterns that look like seeds.

A piece of Su embroidery uses more than one stitch. "Normally, the dazi stitch is used to create minor details, such as petals and birds' eyes to give the whole work an animated feeling," Hu says.

A collaboration with Dior men's Fall 2021 collection brought Hu's studio and the artistry of dazi into the international limelight.

Proposed by Dior's artistic director Kim Jones, the show featured signature cartoon characters created by US artist Kenny Scharf and dazi needlework by Hu's studio on waistbands, slippers and jackets.

The unique creation was a shirt which Hu and her team covered with only dazi stitches, which they had never done before.

"It took about six months to complete the work," Hu says.

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