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Something's brewing!

Malaysians are rediscovering the art and properties of Chinese tea

Updated: 2025-02-11 10:05
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Workers pluck tea leaves in Cameron Highlands in Pahang, Malaysia. MOHD RASFAN/AFP

Tea drinkers

Although the practice of drinking Chinese tea would likely have been introduced by new Chinese arrivals to Malaysia centuries ago, the knowledge and culture behind the art of tea-drinking has been somewhat lost over the generations.

In recent years though, there has been a resurgence in interest among younger Malaysians, partly driven by health concerns and an increased desire for pure teas. This is bolstered by the fact that certain teas have been shown to have health properties.

White tea, for instance, has high levels of antioxidants that may have cancer-fighting properties while green tea can boost heart health and lower cholesterol levels. Oolong tea, on the other hand, contains an amino acid that reduces anxiety levels.

"There is a growing interest among younger people who are health-conscious in tasting or drinking tea that doesn't have any sugar, milk or cream," says Law.

While Law's tea bar honors traditional Chinese tea brewing, Koh's Beca Tea aims to appeal to both conventional tea drinkers as well as those seeking out more contemporary fare that is better for them.

"I believe those who grow up with bubble tea are already starting to gravitate toward the more pure teas. At Beca Tea, we are like a midpoint for this transition. People who are sick of all the sugars and artificial flavorings and colorings are trying to move to purer tea but are not quite sure where to go, so this is where we come in.

"We can introduce you to tea by easing you into tastes that you are more familiar with before going into the pure stuff," he says.

Koh also believes that many younger people who have lost touch with their roots are keen to rediscover it in more accessible ways.

"I think the knowledge of Chinese tea culture and tea drinking was not passed down because the earlier Chinese people who came to Malaysia were menial workers who had busy lives. They did not have the luxury of sitting down, enjoying tea and passing on the knowledge. So I think an entire generation lost out on that knowledge transfer and cultural practice.

"So at Beca Tea, I am encouraged to see young people — anyone between the ages of 20 and 40 — coming because they are curious to know this Asian culture that they have forgotten," says Koh.

Law says she has also noticed that as time has progressed and Chinese tea has become more mainstream in Malaysia, the number of non-Chinese tea drinkers has also shot up.

"I have noticed quite a number of Malay customers who are interested in Chinese teas and how to brew them, so I think slowly Chinese tea will become more popular throughout Malaysia," she says.

THE STAR, MALAYSIA

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