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From street stalls to world markets

By LI YINGXUE | HK edition | Updated: 2025-09-27 13:09
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Shaxian snacks are set to conquer hearts with unique flavors and exotic, fresh ingredients that are nature's gifts to this former trading hub in Fujian province, Li Yingxue reports.

As the first light of dawn filters through its windows, A-Lian Snacks stirs to life. Just after 6 each morning, owner Huang Xiulian threads through the market stalls where the scent of fresh pork and vegetables fills the air. She makes a careful selection of the day's ingredients — pork and freshly made tofu — returning to her eatery, located in Shaxian district, Sanming city, Fujian province, to prepare her signature dishes for the first of her steady stream of patrons.

A third-generation member of Shaxian's small community of traditional snack specialists, Huang is best known for her tofu balls, a delicacy crafted from a closely guarded family recipe. This meticulously prepared dish, in which tofu is mixed with ginger, pork belly and mushrooms, bursts with flavor and is packed with nutrients. It is seldom found outside Shaxian.

"The balls are dusted with a thin layer of sweet potato starch, steamed until cooked, and then used to make soup," Huang says.

The coating demands precision. "If rolled too much, the skin becomes sticky. It must be just thin enough to seal in the filling's moisture."

Mindful of changing tastes, Huang has been innovating, and her minced meat filling is attracting many diners who line up in front of her shop. Her menu also includes tossed noodles, steamed dumplings and hearty soups. Their popularity explains why the Shaxian snack is called the "national snack" of China.

Not many may know exactly where Shaxian is, but everyone knows its food. Located in central Fujian, the district boasts a 1,600-year history as a bustling trading hub. Today, it is famous for the flavors that have traveled far beyond its borders.

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