Visiting Beijing in midwinter? "Why?" People would ask me. "Surely it is very cold then?" Actually, it can be a good time to visit the city. Compared to the summer, when it can be very hot and humid, often winter I can appreciate. Usually very dry, many days of beautiful blue skies and, if properly dressed, it is not that cold. The perfect time for exploring the city on foot. Plus, it is quieter, with far fewer tourists.

In winter, the long overnight flight from Europe was mostly spent in darkness. For me, it was an opportunity to reminisce about the 39 years since first visiting China. I would follow the 'moving map' on the aircraft and trace my many journeys across this vast country.

One of my finest trips was in 1997, which I called 'A Journey to the Lake of Heaven'. It was an ambition fulfilled, heading overland from Beijing to Xinjiang to reach the Lake of Heaven, high within the Tianshan Mountains near Urumqi. The flight path followed that route, which at times is referred to as the Northern Silk Road.

Crossing from Kazakhstan into Chinese airspace over Xinjiang, it is still several hours from Beijing. Too dark outside, I continued concentrating on the map as the aircraft neared Urumqi and Turpan before heading along the northern edge of the Taklimakan Desert. We were flying along the Hexi Corridor, which the trade routes once passed.

One of the landmarks on the map caught my eye: Jiayuguan, an oasis city known for its massive fort and starting point of the Great Wall of China. Continuing eastward, I saw other familiar places. From Gansu province, the route would head onward via Ningxia toward the Great Bend of the Yellow River. As we flew over Inner Mongolia's Baotou and Hohhot, we headed toward Zhangjiakou in northern Hebei before following the main flight corridor south to Beijing. With morning daylight, the view transformed into one of the most spectacular sections of the flight. As the aircraft descended slowly, I looked down over a mountain range traversed by some of the more popular sections of the Great Wall.

Suddenly, the terrain changed onto the vast plain of north eastern China, home to the extensive landscape of urban Beijing. Capital Airport always reminds me of my first arrival there in 1994, at the start of a journey to Sichuan. The airport has vastly expanded since then. However, on arrival, I had to make some readjustments. Today's China is practically a cashless society where so much of everyone's daily needs are organized through smartphones! Again, such an advancement since my early days in the country when even telephones were very limited.

By taxi along the Airport Expressway I soon arrived at my hotel overlooking East No 3 Ring Road. From my room, I looked northwest toward the distant mountains, another major achievement for Beijing. In earlier years, heavy coal was used for heating, and within the older hutong areas, even for cooking. A result, sadly, was air pollution greatly reducing visibility. Today, coal is no longer used nor other combustible fuels. Most winter days now boast very clear skies. Excellent conditions for photography.

Despite a sleepless journey, I quickly set out, heading by metro to the CBD area at Guomao. My destination was the sixth floor outdoor terrace of the China World Trade Centre 3, which commands a magnificent view of a new, international Beijing featuring super tall buildings such as the 528-meter high China Zun (CITIC Tower). Again, it's incredible to recall this area during my early days in Beijing. It was then an industrial zone, producing, for example, motorcycles. A legacy from 1950's. All gone today! That first evening, I took a moment to post images on WeChat, happily reflecting on being back in Beijing!

To appreciate being once again in Beijing, I headed to some of the historic parts of the city for which I still have a strong passion. One area, I had known since 1994, was around Qianmen. There, I would walk again through early commercial lanes such as Dashilar toward alleys such as Yangmeizhu, now a really pleasant area attracting many visitors. Some years back, it underwent careful renovation to prepare it for one of the city's autumn 'Design Weeks', transforming into a home for various artistic, cultural and book stores. It also boasts several delightful cafes that I would once again sit at the window of one and watch everyday life pass along in front of me. Indeed, the area so fascinating, I often would introduce it to visitors, who also appreciated its charms.

Nearby, Qianmen Pedestrian Street also had many great memories. For example, in August 2008, on the first day of the Beijing Olympics, I was there with colleagues from Radio Beijing, welcoming international visitors with the phrase, "Beijing huanying ni!" ("Welcome to Beijing").

A personal reason for returning to the city at this time, was to resume some activities that I had been regularly involved with, particularly over the Christmas Festive Season. Dressed as Santa, I would be greeting people with seasonal wishes, which were particularly appreciated by families with young children.

One venue was within a small, traditional courtyard near Beixinqiao. Famed for its annual 'Winter Fayre', 'The Hutong' is a long-established cultural centre introducing much about Beijing's long heritage. Teaching traditional cuisine cooking was another of its specialties. Located within older alleys, while I was there in mid-December, Beijing experienced an unexpected snowfall. The alleys I would walk through took on vivid memories of my days living in such areas near Jiaodaokou. That evening, I headed back to the CBD by metro, emerging from Jintai Xizhou Station, I was greeted by amazing sights. Snow had changed the area into a temporary winter wonderland. The next morning, most of the snow had been cleared from the roads.

Beixinqiao was a very important area in my early days discovering Beijing, indeed China. In 1987, my first experience of Beijing, I stayed at the Friendship Hotel in suburban Haidian district. There, I had little experience of the everyday city. However in 1994, I would be based at a hotel within a bustling hutong alley close to Beixinqiao, just south of the Lama Temple (Yonghegong). There I became enthralled by the city's historic geography along with traditional life within the older city. From then on, I was determined to learn and understand more of Beijing, from its origins up to the present day. Indeed, recently I was looking at and studying again a magnificent entrance to a traditional grand courtyard home which many times previously I admired and photographed.

Areas that continue to fascinate me include, of course, Zhonggulou. At the northern end of Beijing's Central Axis Line, there stands the historic Drum and Bell Towers. Originally dating from the early 13th century Yuan Dadu ('Great Capital') they remain today as historic icons.

Early Beijing was originally laid out in relation to the Axis Line, creating a fascinating study of historic geography. The Axis runs today for 7.8 kilometers south to Yongdingmen Gate. In July 2024 its significance was recognized after it was inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List. When I walked around Zhonggulou, I saw that new work had been undertaken to build a temple and tourist facilities at the north end.

It is not far to walk from Zhonggulou toward another fascinating area, the 800 year old Lane of Long Stem Pipe Makers (Yandaixiejie) which twists down to the attractive Silver Ingot Bridge (Yindingqiao) at Shichahai. Today, a very popular tourist attraction which I first discovered in 1994!

Reaching Beijing's many historic areas is now so much easier than my early days of discovery. Today, Beijing can be proud of its vast, modern metro system. I found I could travel quickly across the city compared to previously long bus journeys. Indeed, every time I return to Beijing, I head off on newly opened lines. Last year I experienced Line 3 which ran very close to where I had lived until recently near Sanlitun.. This year, I took Line 17 from Workers Stadium Station south to Yong'an Li. The stations are incredible examples of leading metro architecture and design. The Beijing metro system today is certainly a world leader, compared to only two low technology lines in my early days.

The metro is just one part of today's modern Beijing. For me, an ongoing pleasure to watch and follow is the city's development over the past 39 years.

Bruce Connolly is a photographer and writer from Scotland who has lived in China for over 30 years. The views don't necessarily reflect those of China Daily.

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