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A cold dance of survival

By ERIK NILSSON in Altay | CHINA DAILY | Updated: 2026-01-30 06:47
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People can explore the village by riding horse-drawn sleds. CHINA DAILY

If you go

Transportation: Direct flights to Altay are available from Beijing and Guangzhou, Guangdong province. You can also choose to fly to Urumqi, the Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region's capital, and take a one-hour transfer flight or an overnight train ride to Altay.

Carpooling is the most convenient and economical option at about 200 yuan ($29) per person per day, with a four-to-five-hour drive from Altay to Kanas or Hemu.

In scenic areas, shuttle buses are essential in Kanas and Hemu. The transfer center is about one hour from the entrance to Hemu. There are also buses and horse-drawn sleds in the villages.

Activities: After arriving in Altay, you can choose to go night skiing at Jiangjunshan Ski Resort or explore the food street to savor local delicacies.

Hemu attracts skiers from all over. CHINA DAILY

In Hemu, stay in a wooden house and wander around the old village. Be sure to take photos of the "snow mushrooms". Stargazing is highly recommended. Get up early to capture the morning mist at the Hadeng observation deck in Hemu. Then ride a horse through the birch forest.

Tips: Temperatures can drop to — 30 C. Wear windproof down jackets, fleece-lined pants, waterproof, nonslip snow boots, thick gloves and hats; attach hand warmers to your phone to prevent battery drainage from low temperatures. Wear sunglasses to prevent snow blindness and keep a power bank handy to recharge your devices.

Visitors to Hemu and Baihaba need to obtain border passes from local security bureaus before entering.

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