It is easy to spot Elisabeth Koch at Beijing social gatherings; she is the one sporting the outrageous head-gear, usually tailored to the social occasion she is attending, whether it is an embassy party, a polo game or a fashion show.

Koch has carved out a niche as one of the most high profile hat-makers in China since starting her business from scratch five years ago. At first, it was a small service, catering to women needing attire for weddings or parties, but she now has her own studio and is a creative consultant to a Chinese company that has a chain of hat stores.

As well as bespoke pieces for clients in Beijing and other Chinese cities, Koch from the United States runs an online store, supplies hats to boutiques in the United States and Europe and is regularly asked to make elaborate creations for Chinese fashion-magazine shoots or corporate clients.

"I have made hats in the shape of the Eiffel Tower and a lobster," says Koch. "The hats that tend to sell well are the really crazy ones and the ones that are not super-exciting, the two extremes.

"A typical client might be someone whose son, or daughter, is getting married back in their own country. I don't specialize in bridal but I can do cream or white hair pieces; I also make hats just to keep heads warm but try to make them a bit special.

"What is different is the quality. I sew everything by hand, I don't even use a sewing machine. Also the design I will come up with is something you do not see in local stores."

The business came about through a set of circumstances, beginning with the news that diplomat husband Albert van Lawick van Pabst would be posted to the Dutch embassy in Beijing. Instead of opting to become a stay-at-home spouse, Koch decided that moving to a new country would be a perfect chance to pursue her dream of launching a career as a milliner - even though she knew little about China and the needs and wants of customers there.

Koch is nothing if not determined, signing up for a millinery course to advance her skills. On arrival in Beijing, one room of the family's downtown apartment was turned into a studio where appointment-only clients could visit to explain their requirements.