Naturally, relocating a fresh market has a major impact on local residents. Supermarkets usually spring up near a newly developed commercial project, but many old shoppers prefer to travel to a fresh market in another community.

"Regardless of the varieties of food and price differences, I prefer fresh markets because you can always touch the things you want to buy, and pick the ones you want," said Lu Surong, 54, a resident in downtown Shanghai. "You have more choices. Food in supermarkets is often packed. And there is no vendor introducing the best offers of the day to you. There is no fun at all."

Yet many local residents have embraced the supermarket culture. "I have joined the membership schemes of Carrefour, RT-Mart, Wal-Mart and TESCO because the four stores offer different promotion items everyday," said Zhang Jianguo, a retired primary school teacher in Zhabei district. "I compare prices of crabs, shrimps and eggs, and sometimes I can visit three different stores in one afternoon by taking the free shuttle bus. It's interesting."

Urban planners are now looking at the idea of incorporating fresh markets into new property developments. In most European cities, fresh markets mingle with the steel and glass tower blocks, and play an important part in daily life. They have also become famous tourist attractions such as the Borough Market in London and Mercat de la Boqueria in Barcelona.

"Fresh markets can be traditional and modern at the same time," Zhou Jian, a professor of urban planning and design at Tongji University in Shanghai. "Its heritage and fashion are not exclusive, but fresh markets are unique and enhance the neighborhood."