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Great Wall without hordes

By Danielle Chu (Shanghai Star)
Updated: 2006-11-17 09:07



Breathtaking journey

The hike itself can be challenging, but the energy put into traversing lofty peaks and precipitous terrain - sometimes precariously close to cliff edges - is rewarded with unparalleled vistas. In some places the pathway was so steep that I found myself scrambling on all-fours. During those times I was especially thankful that I had brought a day-pack to hold my camera and other items, in addition to wearing shoes with a strong grip.

Great Wall without hordes
Picture taken on October 28, 2006 at Simatai.
[Photo by Chinadaily.com.cn]

Nowadays there is a cable car, round trip tickets at 50 yuan (US$6), and one-way tickets at 30 yuan (US$4), which serves as a drop-off point about 40 minutes on foot from the Wall. It could be a useful alternative if you have a sprained ankle or want to spend time wandering the Great Wall at a more leisurely pace.

In addition, there is a toboggan ride from the Wall to the cable car, costing 30 yuan. This element of the Wall experience is unnecessary and a waste of money, since anyone who wants to reach the cable car can walk directly to it via a flight of stairs.

During the hike, one of the local women turned my attention to construction in the distance that, she explained, was for the Olympics. The Chinese Government is also said to be prioritizing a renovation project for Simatai to be completed in time for the Olympic ceremonies in 2008, meaning the authentic nature of Simatai might change in the near future.

Great Wall without hordes
Picture taken on October 28, 2006 at Simatai.
[Photo by Chinadaily.com.cn]

For now, Simatai remains breathtaking and tranquil. By distancing yourself from the area dotted with cable cars meandering down to the car park, and turning your gaze towards the hills calmly undulating far into the distance, it is possible to imagine history springing back to life. The image of solitary soldiers manning watchtowers over the years is suddenly more tangible than it has ever been. It is within this sereneenvironment that you can begin to see how these echoes of history have settled into the Chinese countryside, and Simatai begins to feel like your own piece of Great Wall history.

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