Photo by Wei Xiaohao / China Daily

"People said I was crazy to choose a hutong location where no VIP in high heels will want to come," says Pascal, a French corporate lawyer who moved to the Chinese capital in 2009. "They said people only want big brands with logos, mall shops with huge car parks, 10-meter-wide display windows."

But the Chinese shoppers did come to Wuhao, and they are now the store's biggest clients. Most of them, Pascal says, are younger than 25, belong to China's "second-generation rich", run their own businesses and travel a lot.

"Some clients, every time they come, they say, 'Isa, what do you have that's new and unique?'" she says, adding that one customer went as far as to buy an entire five-piece collection of jewelry so that the design will remain only within his circle.

It still happens, though, that their shoppers feel torn between buying a pricey, unfamiliar label and an equally pricey but sought-after global luxury brand. This is when shopkeepers have to step into the role of educator, explaining the designer's body of work, the label's image and which celebrities might have been seen in it.

This is also when Shao's coffeemaker comes in handy. Over a cup of cappuccino or espresso, he chats with these customers and suggests they try on the new labels in front of the mirror. Otherwise, he says, they would be in and out of the door in 10 minutes - and not spend two hours shopping like Wang Jingjing.