A model presents the label's representative evening dress at the opening of its first store in Beijing. [Photo provided to China Daily]

"It doesn't feel like doing real official advertising. Because he (Alaia) always says that his customers are his best ambassadors," Fabre says.

Advertising isn't planned until the brand launches a new perfume in July, she says.

This discreet marketing strategy, as part of the brand DNA, will continue in China.

"He never wanted to be tied to the fashion trend, or to the rhythm of the fashion week or the fashion show. He tries to be a little bit far from the storm of fashion because this storm distracts a lot of talents and people," Fabre says.

Alaia is also a collector of antique clothes, which includes pieces from ancient China like the thousand-layer jackets.

The brand was approached by Shin Kong Place to join the mall's newly opened fourth floor. It is not in a hurry to expand for the time being.

"We will go step by step. Maybe another store in Shanghai or Hong Kong. First, we want to make this new store successful," she says.