Established in 1844, Penfolds in Australia is considered an industry leader.

Its recent wine tasting, with the theme "faces of Shiraz", showcased five quality Shiraz or blended Shiraz wines available in China.

Penfolds Koonunga Hill Seventy Six Shiraz Cabernet 2008 has a good fruity body, although the finish is a bit flat. Thomas Hyland Shiraz 2008 is named after the founder's son-in-law. The medium- to full-bodied wine is spicy, while at the same time fruity and concentrated.

Comparatively, Penfolds Bin 138 Old Vine Barossa Valley SGM 2007 is very easy to drink, juicy and refreshing. The acidity is easy to accept, and there is a comfortable hint of sweetness. It was rated 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2007 feels really smooth, although a slight layer of tannin can be felt on the sides of the mouth, with an appropriate level of acidity at the tip of the tongue. According to Peter Gago, Penfolds' chief wine maker, the wine was stored in oak barrels that were once used to keep Grange. Gago thinks the wine will age well for 50 years and is a smart money buy.

The last red wine to appear was Penfolds Grange 2004. The wine is rich, consistent, and has no hard edges, although still young. One can feel the tannin at the tip of the tongue and on the front teeth, as well as at the back of the mouth. Gago says the wine can be addictive, as it "draws you in". The wine pairs well with Peking roast duck, spicy Sichuan food and dumplings, according to Gago.

The tasting started with the smooth, elegantly fruity Penfolds Bin 51 Edent Valley Riesling 2007 and ended with a gratifying Penfolds Club Reserve Aged Tawny Port NV, which has controlled sweetness and fragrance with a coffee and chocolate taste.

The wine tasting, organized by ASC Fine Wines, was appropriately held at Grange, a restaurant named after Penfolds' famous wine, at The Westin Chaoyang Beijing. The eatery has a very complete collection of Grange wines, among which is a bottle of Grange 1966 priced at 22,888 yuan.