Degustation: a culinary term meaning "a careful, appreciative tasting of various foods" and focusing on the gustatory system, the senses, high culinary art and good company.

The culinary design of head chef, Simonetta Garelli, teamed alongside Sheraton’s sommelier, Rahman Lal, Sheraton Hongqiao’s Giovanni’s Italian Restaurant has produced a round table of degustation. Each degustation, with both surf (488rmb) and turf (488rm) options, includes an appetizer, soup, pasta, entrée and a dessert. To add to the chef’s creation, an additional 200rmb will pair each dish, from the salty to the sweet, with the sommelier’s wines, and dessert ports.

Slightly overwhelmed by the various degustations, each its own unique path, we started on a simple note, a Lindeman’s Shiraz Cabernet house red. The light, yet fruity wine was had alongside a fun touch, an unpretentious brown bag, a throw-back to yesteryear, of in-house baked breads, tastefully placed on white china, three toppings their compliment.

With an American Midwest upbringing – meat, followed by a professional life in coastal cities - fish, my taste buds were conflicted and I wanted the best of both worlds, I opted for the A La Carte. But, while of course every man’s palette is his own, advice is often appreciated, especially when it brings flavor to both the atmosphere and taste buds. So, in the end, on Chef Garelli’s advice, we started with the Deep-Fried Prawns and Squid with a Strawberry Mayonnaise (120rmb). The squid, both rings cut from the flank as well as the tentacles vied for attention, chewy, but not rubbery, fried but not lost in batter, the strawberry mayonnaise bringing a cooling, slightly sour taste. The prawns retained their juicy flavor, the sauce again adding its unique touch to the seafood.

Our second appetizer was the evening’s first work of art, the Tuna Carpaccio, Tomato Cream, Buffalo Mozarella Cheese, Black Olives (110rmb.) The razor-thin slice of raw fish was covered in an equally thin layer of mild tomato cream, bringing a semi-sweet taste to the cool fish. The blocks of mozzarella cheese were wet and fresh, pairing well with the peppery arugula on top.

Another selection found on the Degustation Menu Fish was the Pan-fried Salmon Filet, Beetroot Salad, Green Peas Cappacuccino (168rmb.) The edges crisp, the top salty, its middle flaky, while retaining its steak-like consistency, the nearly boneless fish, sweet beetroot it’s cap, was gone in a flash.

From the Degustation Menu Meat, we had the Home-made Spatzle Pasta, Sausage and Cabbage Ragout (98rmb). The egg-based noodles, the name referring to the ‘sparrow-shaped’ pasta, were soft alongside the crumbled pork, whose taste clearly showed that the sausage was handmade – if your mouth waters and you cannot help but smile, it’s homemade. The minimal cabbage added an attractive crunch. This lesser-known Italian pasta was the star of the night.

Our final entrée was the Beef Tenderloin in Herb Crust, Vegetable Ratatouille (320rmb). The slightly pink center, allowing a minimum of juice to be respected, showed that the meat was cooked to a perfect medium as requested. The centimeter thick crust added additional flavor to the cut, the sautéed vegetables both sweet and citricy.

Dessert was presented on an artist’s pallet, Hot Chocolate Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream and Amarena Fabbri (75rmb). The spoonful of ice cream and the syrup-dipped wild cherries the ‘paint’ and the brownie with melted chocolate its core the artist’s inspiration. Three words to describe this delight: warm, gooey sweetness.

My only regret of the evening was that I was overly focused on the food and the ambience, rudely ignoring the libations and not taking full advantage of a sommelier’s suggestions.

On the 27th floor of Sheraton Hong Qiao, a view of the expanding city before you, either business or romantic, a larger group or a sound gathering of friends, Giovanni’s genuine service and an eye for assisting those who appreciate the help makes for a pleasant evening.

Location

No. 5, Zunyi Nan Lu (South Zunyi Road) //上海遵義南路5 號

Service quality:

very good

Food quality:

very good

Price per head (RMB):

300-400

Environment:

excellent

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