Most vegetarian restaurants in Beijing offer what is typically considered Buddhist-based vegetarian cooking that does not use the "five spices" as seasoning.

These are the alliums of shallot, garlic, coriander, leek and onion, which are considered strong stimulants and not conducive to Buddhist precepts.

At King's Joy, there is no such taboo.

Buddhist vegetarian restaurants often play soft chants or Buddhists hymns in the background, but King's Joy prefers soft secular pop.

The restaurant also does not believe in "mock meat" dishes, so widely available in other vegetarian eateries. Guo says these imitation meat dishes taste and look so much alike that many diners are no longer interested.

King's Joy is positioning itself as a top-level vegetarian restaurant and from what we can see and hear at the first visit, they are almost there.

The setting is measured, with a well-appointed courtyard house combining traditional Chinese architecture with Western dining comfort. A central atrium has a glass roof which allows in natural light.

The dining area is wrapped around a lovely courtyard in the open. Several private rooms have a view of a lovely bamboo wood, where you can have a table set out, weather permitting.

For those who may want to try out a sampler, the restaurant offers a set meal of eight-courses at 299 yuan ($47) per head, including appetizers, soup, mushroom, green vegetables and fried rice.

The general quality and taste was impressive and a serving staff was at hand to introduce all the health benefits as each dish arrived at table.

Among the set meal, fried yu'er yellow mushroom with lily bulbs, silk gourd fried with pickled red chili, sauteed Matsutake mushrooms on Bodhi leaf are all excellent. Another popular choice was the fried fox nuts with asparagus tip.

The fox nuts used are fresh and not the dried nuts normally available, and had great texture and taste.

Two thumbs up, too, for a pineapple fried rice, with egg; fresh, diced pineapple; aromatic pine nuts; and raisins. A steamed rice with preserved egg yolk and shiitake served on lotus leaf is also a winner.

The set meal aside, the cheapest item on the menu costs 25 yuan, but many are priced at more than 100 yuan a helping.

King's Joy has a Chinese name - Jingzhaoyin - which is an ancient Chinese term meaning "Beijing mayor".

The restaurant is a traditional Beijing dianxin (bite-sized food) specialist, which had moved to Taiwan, where it started vegetarian restaurants. This Beijing outlet is a cross-Straits joint venture.

Contact the writer at yejun@chinadaily.com.cn.