Japanese food is ubiquitous in Hong Kong, which makes Kokon's inventive offerings uniquely refreshing. Owner chef Lai worked for years in Japan and California perfecting his repertoire before "retiring" back in Hong Kong. The restaurant is tiny with seats for only about 10. Concrete blocks surrounding the shop add a quirky ambience that is matched by intriguing menu items such as Midnight Cowboy and Can't Forget You. Lai's culinary heritage is exemplified by items such as his Philadelphia rolls, starring soothing cream cheese, avocado and smoked salmon. Equally delicious is the spider roll with massive amounts of crunchy soft shell crab legs poking out, smothered in a delicious savory sauce. Save room for the house specialty: sushi pizza. The rice base is deep fried and then topped with eel, tuna, salmon, crab and shrimp. It gets Lai's signature sprinkling of crushed potato chips for added texture to a creatively hearty dish. Rebecca Lo.

Kokon, Shop G5, King's Commercial Building, 2-4 Chatham Court, Tsim Sha Tsui. 852-5991-6033