The Taj Pavilion attracts diners with elegant decor and obliging staff at all of its three Beijing outlets. Samosas, thin cones of thin dough filled with spiced vegetables and deep-fried until crisp, are a great starter but the curries are the real queens of the dinner table.

Mutton vindaloo and chicken tikka masala are examples, and great with yellow dal, rice and garlic naan to soak up the sauces. Vindaloo is the height of spicy Indian curries, but this mutton dish puts fireworks on tongues without calling for a fire brigade.

The chicken tikka masala was aromatic and delicious, with just the right savory heat. The best way to enjoy Indian is with a group of friends, so get together and share some curries on a cold winter night.

The Taj Pavilion, Lido Hotel, 6 Jiang Tai Road, Chaoyang district, Beijing. 010-6436-7678