The traditional imperialsnake red bean cake. Photo by Samantha Hawker provided to China Daily

Wowotou, sweet corn bread cones flavored with Chinese jujubes, was a favorite of the Empress Dowager Cixi, and they arrived on a raised copper dish that matched the teapot.

The pea-cake and the red bean cake, also traditional imperial snacks, arrived soon after but it was the cheese fish that stole the show.

There was an impressive attention to the detailing of the spine and scales, and it sat on an oblong black platter, shimmering with sweet golden syrup and almost too pretty to eat. But we did, and found the strong flavor of the cheese rendered smooth by the custard-like consistency.

It would be a mistake to pass over the pan-fried pigs liver. Each piece is packed full of juice and when chewed it bursts like an explosion. It goes well with the velvety stir-fried eggplant and cowpea.

Like perfectly aged wine, every dish was rich without being extravagant or overpowering. There was a consistent subtlety to the flavors and despite the fusion of sweet and savory, our wide choice of foods complimented one another.

Overall, there was something comforting about the affair, maybe due to our countless glasses of the body-warming litang. But if this is a homely neighborhood restaurant, then it is one garnished with a scholarly elegance.