Pingqiao bean-curd soup.

Cai, who runs both kitchens, says while Yangzhou food adopts ingredients from around the country, Huai'an cuisine uses a lot of local produce.

This is reflected in the Huai'an menu at Red Chamber. Many specialties are named after the area in Huai'an where the ingredients hail from.

Bean-curd soup is from Pingqiao. A local landlord is said to have served it almost three centuries ago to visiting Qing Emperor Qianlong - quite a gourmet himself, if we judge from the number of foods with stories relating to him. The emperor praised it, and the soup has been popular ever since.

Of course, the secret of any food's long-term popularity lies in good taste. Tofu for the Pingqiao-style soup has to be cut neatly into small rhombic shapes, and made with chicken stock.

Pucai, or cattail from Kaiyang, is also very special. It is the crisp and tender stem of a water plant, raised in very deep, fertile silt. Very tender and delicate, pucai is mostly sauteed and added to chicken soup, then topped with dried shrimp. The tenderness reminds one of white asparagus, only more tender. It's become a high-end delicacy locally.

Huai'an has many rivers and lakes, such as Hongze Lake, Dayun Lake, the ancient Yellow River, and Baima Lake. The city is a proud producer of good rice and fishes.

Silver minnow is lightly brined and dried to give it a bit of good chewy texture, before it's steamed and served. Huai'an's braised eel uses only the back of those about the size of a chopstick, because they offer the best taste.