Served with game such as duck or pigeon, the wine is robust enough to counter the poultry's richness.

J. Heinrich 2009 Terra O. Trocken, Mittelburgenland, Austria (HK$580) is another deep Burgundy-style red that was served to then Premier Wen Jiabao during his state visit to Austria. He complimented his host on the well-selected Bordeaux - not the first to be beguiled by the wine's similarities.

The blend mixes the region's varietals including Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, with modern tannins and pepper notes. For those so inclined, it is currently available in Lufhansa airline's first-class cabin.

My favorite wine of the day was Domdechant Werner 1989 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Hockheimer VDP, Rheingau, Germany (HK$3,900). The dessert wine has the softness of the best ice wine, yet has a rich body that gives it weight and substance. I loved its soothing sweetness and distinctive riesling characteristics, with or without a chocolate dessert accompaniment.

Many of the hundreds of wines distributed by Schmidt Vinothek will be available to sample at the upcoming Wine & Dine Festival along Central's new harbor front. I'm looking forward to trying more vintages from Deutschland there.

IF YOU GO

Schmidt Vinothek

Shop A1, G/F, Riviera Mansion, 2A Hoi Wan Street, Quarry Bay. 852-2327-9818. Shop 18, G/F, Sai Kung Garden, 16 Chan Man Street, Sai Kung, New Territories. 852-2792-6113.

5-11:30 pm, Oct 31; noon-midnight, Nov 1, 2; noon-10:30 pm, Nov 3.

Booths 4101 & 4102, Everyday Wine Zone, Hong Kong's Wine & Dine Festival, New Central Harbourfront, Central.