The other side of Xinjiang

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The Yuquan Mountain branch is much bigger than the original, with an informative museum at the entrance.

Born in 1926, Cheng had training in both Chinese and Western cooking, as he worked in restaurants at Tianjin's foreign settlement in the 1940s, where he learned to prepare English, French and Russian cuisines.

Cheng became a chef in Beijing's railway bureau, and he got his first chance to serve Mao on a special train in 1954. Two years after that, he was transferred to Zhongnanhai to serve Mao and other state leaders.

Cheng summed up some of Mao's requests: mainly vegetarian, occasionally meat, fresh, light and healthy. The foods were rich in protein, minerals, vitamins, vegetable fiber and juice.

In the museum, a wax statue of Cheng shows a smiling, earnest, kind old man. There are some photos that would be impossible to see elsewhere. There are Cheng's photos with Mao, and Mao's daughter and nephew, and even Mao's wife Jiang Qing.

One interesting surprise from his time working in Tianjin: Before he came to Beijing to cook for Mao, he got a chance to serve a mysterious important guest, whom he later learned was Chiang Kai-shek. The museum's display board says Cheng kept that a secret for 60 years.

Cheng Fu Yan has its third branch at Dongsi. All three restaurants are laid out courtyard style, and decorated with an eye to Mao's time and taste.

Cui Shibing, the restaurant's general manager, says the eatery has a small group of guests who particularly like its delicate style. Most people come for a business meal, if not to impress their guests.

The restaurant decor, as well as the stories behind the food, take diners back to that historic time. It is a very quiet place to have a good conversation.

If You Go

Cheng Fu Yan

Nanchangjie branch: No 38 Yard, Nanchangjie, Xicheng district, Beijing, near the west gate of Zhongshan Park. 010-6606-9936.

Yuquan Mountain branch: No 81 Yard, Yudong Park, Sijiqing Township, Haidian district, Beijing, 010-6288-1189.

Average bill per head: Set meal at 1,080 yuan ($177), 1,380 yuan, 2,080 yuan or tailor-made price.

Recommended: Cheng Style Brown-braised Pork, Marshal Prawn and Braised Wuchang Bream.