Japanese bean curd in wooden hotpot is Kyo-Shun's signature dish.

Donabe clay-pot rice is a regular feature of seasonal kaiseki meals at high-end restaurants, and suits the ambiance at Kyo-Shun perfectly.

We had the sea bream clay pot rice, and our nostrils are immediately charmed by the wafting scent as the lid is lifted.

The rice is thoroughly infused with the fragrance of the fresh sea fish, and we finally realize why those television gourmets on Japanese culinary programs were always falling into raptures every time a donabe clay pot appeared on the table.

Kyo-Shun is not your garden-variety, tonkatsu-sushi-ramen restaurant. You go for the atmosphere, for the culinary heritage that characterizes Kyoto cuisine and for the astonishing view out of its windows at dinner.

Perched on top of one of the newer towers along the main shopping artery of Nathan Road, The One is home to the usual coterie of designer labels. Access to the 18th floor can be a little confusing, as you need to catch two escalators up to an upper-floor podium before getting onto dedicated lifts.

The 18th-floor lift opens onto Tapagria, the restaurant group's Spanish tapas and sangria bar. Farther to the left is Zurriola, the Spanish restaurant. And, tucked toward the end of the corridor is Kyo-Shun, a surprising entry into a very different world.

Dark wood, decorated panes and a chorus of greetings from chefs and waiters welcome diners, but otherwise, the atmosphere is that of muted elegance.

Kyo-Shun is the place to go when you want to entertain in style. It is a restaurant where you can talk discreet business or even consider proposals, private or corporate. And of course, the pretty, delicate and delicious food is a bonus.

IF YOU GO

Kyo-Shun

Level 18, The One, 100, Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong. 852-2426-6111.

Average cost per head: 500 to 800 yuan ($82-132).

Recommended: Seasonal Appetizer Platter, Sea Bream Rice in Donabe Clay Pot, Japanese Bean Curd in Wooden Hotpot, Crabmeat Egg Custard with Black Truffles.