The steamed crabs served at Jieyang Zhong Ji Restaurant are fat and solidly packed with sweet meat.

There is a tiny street in the city that has a whole row of Chaozhou restaurants a little-known gourmet paradise only real Shenzhen natives patronize.

Not far from the prosperous commercial hub of Futian and its exhibition and convention center, Futian New Village is a different world altogether. It was here that the first immigrants came to stock up on groceries from home, and slowly, the first Chaozhou eateries set up shop first as little hole-in-the-wall stalls, then as bigger restaurants with proper dining halls.

We visited on a weeknight but the lights were blazing and the crowds were hungry.

There are several restaurants in the cluster, but the one we visited was obviously the largest and most popular and its name, Jieyang Zhong Ji Restaurant, proudly advertises its regional specialties.

It had stacked aquariums full of fresh seafood, including local salt-water fishes and prawns, varieties of crabs and an impressive display of all types of shellfish. This is where you point and order, and get into a lively discussion with the stall-owner on how best to enjoy it all.

Generally, Chaozhou flavors are subtle, and seafood is best steamed or lightly seasoned so you can enjoy the natural sweetness. The famous steamed Chaozhou cold crab is a fine example.

First on our table was a steaming hot clay pot of pig tripe soup flavored with whole white peppercorns. The spicy fragrance lifted our appetite immediately and on a cold winter night, that bowl of milky tonic was very much appreciated.

A plate of stir-fried morning glory and a platter of braised meats appeared next.

The morning glory, also known as water convolvulus or kangkong, is an all-season standby that is cheap and plentiful. Flavored with spicy prawn paste or fermented bean curd sauces, it becomes a delicious plate of greens.