Finally, the chefs presented a simple cake made from two types of rice flour, the usual white rice and darker, deeper purple rice. Again, subtlety is the key word, and the smidgen of lotus paste hidden in its heart was all that was needed to complete the epicurean treat.

In another meal in the same restaurant, executive chef Samson Sun, a native Beijinger, proudly showed off his skills with another dish - beaten eel.

Translated, the name of this dish loses much of its lyricism and acquires an unwarranted exoticism. In truth, eels are very commonly eaten here, and provide much of the protein in the diet.

They are plentiful, easily caught and raised and are another signature in the regional cuisine.

Beaten eel is a deboned fillet that is laid flat on the chopping board and beaten with a rolling pin to tenderize the flesh. The fillet is braised, mainly to get rid of the fishy taste. The result is a fish roll, tender at first bite, and then chewy when you reach the skin.

At Richesse Chinoise, the beaten eel is served with a dove egg, its white translucent and serving as a contrast to the eel's dark meat.

If you only had one chance to eat Chinese, search out Huaiyang cuisine. It combines the best of northern and southern styles and in Nanjing, few places serve it better than the Richesse Chinoise.