Photo by Mike Peters / China Daily

"The China market has more forgiving customers, but operations can be more demanding," he says. "You're dealing with very proud people." In Australia or Europe, he says, you must work in a professional kitchen for four years before you become a commis chef, and start working your way up the chef ladder of titles.

In China you can almost walk on to some of those roles, he says, though that's changing as the profession develops here.

"Instead of skill and qualifications, they would substitute numbers," he says, noting that when he first arrived in China there might be 20 or 30 chefs in a kitchen that might have operated with 10 or 12 in a similar venue back home.

A big believer in natural ingredients, Blair likes to keep the plate simple and consistent, with seasonal ingredients from nearby organic farms.

On this night, diners will start with Dalian abalone with French Fine de Claire oyster tartare. Flown in fresh, abalone from Northeast China is famous because the temperature of the water brings out the best quality. The centerpiece of the multi-course meal with wine pairings: Braised short rib of Angus beef, parsley puree and slow-roasted peach with star-anise veal jus.

Braising this famous short rib with aromatic Chinese spices, he says, is a great combination of Chinese cooking technique with Australian products.

"You need to add just a little edge," he adds, "to give both the kitchen staff and the diner something they haven't seen before."