For those who prefer a lighter start, the green salad comes sprinkled with walnuts and a fig dressing that skims the surface of the leaves.

My seafood stew almost had me licking the bottom of the bowl. Again, the tomato-based broth was full of the natural umami that comes from fully ripened fruit cooked with good olive oil to release its fullest flavors.

Thin slices of fennel added another layer of taste and texture, while the generous portion of fish and prawns left the light eater fully satisfied.

My dining mates had the roasted chicken with baby potatoes and the braised beef brisket, both of which were artfully presented.

It is pretty difficult to make beef brisket stand out on a plate, but Calypso places the slices on a bed of velvety creamed potatoes, and tops it with a sprig of fresh rosemary. The result is a work of art.

Roast chicken in most Western restaurants tend to be soggy-skinned and over-cooked, but the portion on my neighbor's plate looked very crisp. As she cut into her chicken, juices spurted out.

Dessert is definitely a major attraction here, with the 85-percent Valrhona chocolate lava cake and the pistachio gelato grabbing the limelight. Our palates were dancing with pleasure.

Calypso is a good place to retreat to at lunch, and it has a cozy and conducive ambience for a recharge for the next part of the day. We all need that.

IF YOU GO

Calypso

Corner of Tongren Road and Anyi Road, Jing'an Kerry Center Piazza. 021-2203-8888 Ext 220.

Recommended: Mushroom Soup, Roast Chicken, Mediterranean Seafood Stew, Braised Beef Brisket, Valrhona Chocolate Lava Cake, Pistachio Gelato.