Many older Chinese-run restaurants serving Western food offer two soup choices, one white and one red. They are usually not very tasty, but in this case the soup was hot and full of flavor.

We had the fillet steak de Louis served with pate butter and champignon sauce and the roast rack of lamb. My dining companion told me that her friends say that the restaurant was not much to look at, but the meat was excellent. They were right.

My steak was done to a perfect medium and my friend's lamb smelled delicious. Both came with baked potato and vegetables. Our waiter brought over some mustard and bernaise sauce, but additional sauces were really not necessary. The bernaise was what I would call "gloopy", like thick paste and not at all sauce-like. We enjoyed our mains immensely all the same, and it was pleasant that we could actually converse in this restaurant and not strain to hear each other over the general din found in some places.

Dessert was crepes suzette. Not too heavy, it was a good way to end a fairly rich and filling meal. We were tempted by the baked Alaska, but perhaps on another visit.

Overall, it's a fun place to try and one that gives you a taste of Hong Kong dining history.

IF YOU GO  

Louis' Steak House  1/F, Malaysia Building, 50 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong.

852-2529-8933.  

Cost per head: HK$500-600 ($64-77).  

Recommended: Steaks, Rack of Lamb, Crepes Suzette.