"Most suppliers rear the crabs somewhere else, and then so they can be labeled as "Yangcheng Lake" crabs, they bring them back to the lake maybe one or two weeks before they are sold, and keep them in the waters there."

That is why some hairy crabs on the market are called xizao xie, or "bath-tub crabs". They merely had a soak in Yangcheng Lake.

The hairy crab story is only one tip of the iceberg.

Such a huge country of rising affluence, China has more and more people with disposable income they are prepared to spend on food. But it is also around conspicuous consumption where the most questions are being asked.

We know all about the concerns for food safety, especially the indiscriminate use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides and steroids to get food to grow faster, larger and appear more perfect for the market.

Consumerism often leads to waste, and waste leads to pollution. As can be seen from recent policies set in the last parliamentary meetings, China's leaders are concerned enough to emphasize that economic growth needs to be balanced with environmental protection.

Now we wait for the messages to filter down.

Yangcheng Lake is a good example where the authorities are waking up to the threat. The Kunshan county authorities have placed the whole lake under guard as a protected park where fishing is not allowed, and crab farming rigorously licensed and regulated.

As for the little mitten crabs, perhaps they now have the chance to make a comeback in the not too distant future.