The Georg in Beijing is the first showroom of the Danish silverware brand Georg Jensen in the Chinese mainland as well as its first restaurant in the world. Photos provided to China Daily

A legendary silverware creator launches a fine-dining restaurant as part of a design lifestyle center. Mike Peters stops in for dinner and an eyeful.

Its gray-cloaked hutong setting is serene and quiet, but the buzz around The Georg is almost deafening.

If you "are in the mood for one of the best meals you'll have this year, look no further," pronounces Bespoke Beijing.

"None of Beijing's independent fine dining establishments could hold a candle to TRB until The Georg crept quietly into being at the end of last year," coos the Beijinger magazine.

"Through the stone vestibule, past the bamboo hedges, a refuge from the tourist throngs awaits," chimes Metropolitan magazine, all the way from New York.

That's a lot of hou-ha for a restaurant that is still officially in soft-opening mode. The restaurant has been turning heads in China's capital not only because of its quickly achieved polish, but a healthy Chinese appreciation of the mother brand. Georg Jensen has been a distinguished silver craft house for 110 years－and its Copenhagen showroom is often packed with Chinese tourists. So it felt natural for David Chu, chief creative officer of the Danish design house, to "capture the DNA and the feel of Copenhagen" by establishing the company's first showroom in the Chinese mainland as well as its first restaurant in the world.