Display of Indian spices. [Photo by Delores Tyus Prichard/China Daily]

A portable tandoor oven is in operation, and chef Makhan Singh was making naan by flattening out dough and slapping it on the side of the clay oven, where it cooked into crunchy deliciousness.

The rich butter chicken was my favorite－when ordered a la carte, it's the most expensive item on the menu at 80 yuan, while some entrees are just 40 yuan. There also were kadahi vegetables, aloo jeera potatoes, prawns, basmati rice and more. Jasmeet Singh says that while they don't adjust recipes for non-Indian palates, they have mainly chosen northern dishes that generally are less hot. The Goan fish curry from southwestern India has more robust spiciness, however.

A cup of sweet mango lassi, a yogurt drink, was a perfect balance to the curry.

While we dined, chef Singh came out to the restaurant floor to demonstrate how roomali roti, a thin Indian bread, is stretched by being tossed in the air like a pizza. At peak dinnertime hours, there also are dancers, and artists who will apply a henna tattoo.

If you go

Indian Cuisine at the Jianguo Hotel Cafe

Through April 24; Lunch noon to 2 pm, menu items only; dinner 6 to 10 pm, buffet and menu items; No 5 Jianguomenwai Dajie; reservations: 010-6500-2233. (The Taj Pavilion restaurants are at China Overseas Plaza, at Metro Park Lido, and at Euro Plaza in Shunyi.)