Jean-Georges Shanghai restaurant is known for its light and Asian-influenced style of French cuisine. [Photo by Hu Weiwei/China Daily]

It's served sashimi style with the fish skin on, seasoned with preserved chili, sea salt and olive oil and paired with a bowl of madai broth. The fish itself is on the bland side, but the spices it absorbs provide enough excitement for the palate.

The Shanghai exclusive is a favorite of Vongerichten among the additions to the menu, which account for about half of the total. His classic dishes comprise the remainder－the favorites that keep people coming to him, he says.

But diners will find a few tweaks and surprises in the classics as well.

His signature egg caviar, for example, roosts delicately on a lovely duck-feet-shaped porcelain cup, an effect that makes one too softhearted to take a scoop. But once you start, the stomach overrules the heart. The foamy scrambled egg whipped with vodka is as airy as the renovated space, or the crystal white cloud above Pudong's skyline outside the window.

The chocolate dessert tasting is more than a sampling, satiating your craving for the sweets.