Chef Ethan Robinson prepares dishes for a wine-pairing dinner at the Canadian embassy in Beijing during the fifth "Eat Drink Canada China". [Photo provided to China Daily]

For example, the Averill Creek pinot noir and the Mission Hill Family Estate Oculus, two dry reds that were hits at our table－both from British Columbia. Another red, the Wayne Gretzky Estate merlot from the province of Ontario, won more muted approval from our group of embassy and media folks, but generated grunts from the neighboring table, where five wine professionals were tasting blind and marking score sheets more aggressively. There were no bonus points for a favorite-son hockey star that might grace the label.

Canada's world-class ice wines are already well-known in China－but many fine table wines are increasingly finding their way to Chinese market shelves and restaurant tables.

"Last year, Canada's global wine exports for table wines and ice wines were valued at $65.3 million," says Saint-Jacques. "China has become our second-largest market for Canadian table wine and our largest for ice wine."

Counterfeit ice wine is an ongoing problem, officials say. There are strict regulations to protect genuine ice wine's authenticity: keeping the grapes on the vines until harvest; harvesting the grapes at temperatures below－8 C; and harvesting and pressing the grapes in a continuous process while they remain naturally frozen. Counterfeits are usually diluted white wine sweetened with honey－a deceptive practice that diminishes the reputation of the real thing and discourages new drinkers from appreciating ice wine.