A variety of tapas, small plates prepared in Mediterranean style, will be rotated seasonally by chef Fabio Falanga. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Most bottles on the wine list－currently including vintages from Argentina, Australia, Austria, California, Chile, France, Germany, Italy, New Zealand and Spain－are priced under 500 yuan (about $73), and eight are offered by the glass.

Fu has such a range because Ohlsson is getting wines from 10 distributors, for a list that will cycle wines on and off the list as they become available－and pass his taste test.

There are two menus offered on clipboards, "Wines" and "Bites". The latter is Mediterranean small plates created by Fabio Falanga, the Italian chef who has made a gem out of Sanlitun's La Dolce Vita.

At Fu, the tapas are elegant bar nibbles to enjoy with a glass or two of wine and a chat with friends.

The stars on our visit were the fried scallops with yuzu and truffle sauce. The scallops are encased in shreds of pasta kataifi, which gives them the look of a Turkish dessert, and the whole package is a nice meld of textures and flavors. Other hits: 200-days grain-fed beef tenderloin with vegetable tempura and bearnaise sauce, the seared tuna fillet and the gnocchi with chorizo. Potato croquettes with an almond crust, filled with pancetta and goat's cheese, are a nice, warm treat too.

Satisfying soups on the winter menu include pumpkin made rich with pechorino cheese, pancetta bacon and sun-dried tomato; shrimps in savory tomato broth; and truffle-flavored organic mushroom soup.