[Photo provided to China Daily]

He also remembers the dinner preparations. For instance, the children were forbidden from standing near the pot when the adults deep-fried the jau gok, a dough snack. This was because it was believed that wishes would be granted if they were spoken when putting the dough into the hot oil. So adults would keep children away from the pot lest they said something inauspicious.

"I don't think young people today know about these traditions or have spent time preparing a Spring Festival Eve dinner together with family members, which is a pity," says Wong, a famous gourmet based in Guangzhou, and the president of the Guangdong Province Food Culture Research Association.

"I treasure the time spent with my family members preparing Spring Festival Eve dinner. Whether it is discussing how to cook a dish or just chatting about what happened in the past year, we communicate with family members," he says.

"For me, communication between family members is the highlight of Spring Festival, whether we dine at home or out in a restaurant, whether we are in the south or in the north."

Contact the writer at xujingxi@chinadaily.com.cn