It was a rickety rickshaw. Maybe its structure was just deliberately light so the driver could haul plump foreigners more easily. In any case, we sped along the hutong alleyways at a rapid pace, which didn't allow me time to take intrusive photos where doors had been left carelessly ajar. We challenged taxis, cars and similar motorized transportation, rapidly crossing intersections without fear.

At some point, after pointing out the smallest alley, Little Black Tiger, the driver pulled over next to a red and gold painted door. He indicated that we should enter the courtyard but told us that there would be a fee. Just then we spotted a group of four blonde women coming out, so we asked whether it was worth the expense. "Yes!" they enthusiastically chorused. So we entered.

The courtyard was shaded by artificial greenery on an overhead trellis, with a porcelain table and stools underneath. A Chinese woman greeted us and graciously invited us into her home.

My partner was a native speaker of Chinese, so while the two of them chatted, I made friends with one of the birds in the cages hanging from the trellis. It was a marvelous mynah bird, which eyed me curiously, sidled to my side of the cage, and produced: "Ni hao?" I sensed an apt pupil and worked to add "Hello" and "Hola" to its repertoire.

Next we were invited to tea, although whether to extend the chat or rescue the bird was still preoccupying me. What did become clear was that the woman's ancestor had married into the imperial family and she told us all about their history.

The house had been remodeled by a family member and the government had then requested that they share it with tourists, while keeping a small portion of the fee. The courtyard had become popular for weddings and even offered a bridal suite for the wedding night. We took pictures, veiled and seated in the bride's red silk sedan chair which was matched by the groom's rickshaw.

The tea was delicious and the time spent in conversation enlightening. The discussion presented a different perspective of young Chinese people, one that taught us more about the throngs of miniskirts, lace leggings, and soccer shirts that crowd Xidan and Wanfujing.

Although there is a craving for the new, the traditional has not been abandoned and Chinese wedding tradition is very much alive. Most young Chinese people seek to be whole and fulfilled through connection with all aspects of their culture.

As our hostess shared her hopes and convictions with us, she asked us how old we thought she was. My guess was at least 15 years too young, but I knew when I made it that she was a classic and that her beauty from within was truly ageless.

In the 1800's, Count de Toqueville commented that a society's strength depends upon the character of its women. If the warmth and eloquence of this octogenarian are any evidence, China has impressive resources upon which to draw.

(China Daily 07/30/2008 page20)