A dull street lamp vaguely lights us from above. Dust is flying through the air. From a distance we might look like suspicious characters. The deal happens just around a corner. Colorful and lifeless apartment blocks stretch into the sky all around us.

All four of us, Michael, our boys and I, along with Wendy, are bent over the little man with white hair. Outside, on the corner, in the dark night, illuminated by the dim light. The smiling old man has brought a wooden box with a heavy lid. Slowly he opens it and unveils a considerable number of syringes and unlabeled drugs. Nervously, I imagine a scene where the police arrive with flashing lights and arrest us. I mean, what a picture we make!

Our sweet dachshund, Alex, has had a rash under his snout for several days. Time to turn to an expert. From friends we get the phone number of a veterinarian and call him. The nice gentleman informs us that we can come any time. We should simply call a few minutes before our arrival.

After dinner we round up the confused dog and take him into town (to Yangshuo, Guilin, Guangxi). We park in the large car park opposite the market and get out. A man walks past, leisurely swinging a cooked dog's leg, no doubt his supper. Alex isn't fussed.

Wendy calls the vet again to let him know that we will be there shortly. He gives her directions. Together, we cross the main road and turn into a dark alley. From there, we take a right turn and notice a man following us. Abruptly, we look behind and query our pursuer. It turns out that he is the vet and has been waiting for us. We don't really understand why until he asks us to show him the sick animal right there, outside, around the corner.

This doctor practices on the road! Apparently, this is still allowed for veterinarians.

Here we are, with this tiny man of about 70, who radiates a great kindness in his eyes. He looks at Alex, briefly, and then draws a long, blood red string from his pocket and wraps it quickly and skillfully around the dog's snout. He pulls out a syringe. Michael is asked to hold the animal tight. The vet quickly jabs the needle into the dog's behind, he winces and moans in return. He tries to free himself but within no time, a second injection lands in the neck, the doctor pulls off the string and the aggrieved dog is given time to recover.

Wendy already wants to leave, true to the tradition that one doesn't ask questions of a doctor. However, we want to know what Alex has, whether it is contagious for people and how long it will take to cure. Do we have to do anything else and do we have to come back and see him again? Why do Westerners want so many answers?

He assures us that whatever it is, it will be better within three days and that we can call him anytime. He wants 20 yuan ($3) for his services and then leaves us with a smile.

We go back home, still a little skeptical. The next morning, however, the rash begins to heal and Alex happily barks in the garden again!

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