36 hours in Honolulu
Updated: 2011-07-22 17:22
(The New York Times)
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A view of Waikiki Beach from Kapiolani Park, the 300-acre recreational magnet at the foot of Diamond Head.[Photo/The New York Times] |
Saturday
9 a.m.
5) DIAMOND HEAD FOOD FEST
Yes, it's possible to have breakfast on the slopes of Diamond Head, at Honolulu's busiest farmers' market. A bonanza for early-bird foodies, the Saturday farmers' market at Kapiolani Community College (4303 Diamond Head Road; 808-848-2074; hfbf.org) is the raison d'être for many a local food lover. Take your own bag and go early to find parking: it's worth it. Everything there is local. The rainbow of products is edible Hawaii in full color, whether it's persimmons, homemade ginger and guava drinks, mangoes, goat cheese, local honey or scones and banana bread.
11 a.m.
6) IT'S ALL ABOUT ART
With the merger this summer of the Contemporary Museum and the Honolulu Academy of Arts (900 South Beretania Street; 808-532-8700; honoluluacademy.org), and a new director, Stephan Jost, the buzz is all about art. A $25, two-and-a-half-hour tour of Shangri La, the Islamic museum founded by the Doris Duke estate, begins and ends at the Academy, which runs the Shangri La tours. A 20-minute shuttle ride takes you to the 1930s oceanfront mansion-turned-museum with its Iznik tiles, Central Asian textiles and 13th-century prayer room. When you return to the Academy, leave time for the Hawaii collection in the John Dominis and Patches Damon Holt Gallery, with works by Jules Tavernier, Lionel Walden and other Hawaiian masters.
1:30 p.m.
7) ART AND THE PLATE
The Pavilion Cafe (900 South Beretania Street; 808-532-8734; honoluluacademy.org/394-pavilion_cafe), the restaurant for the Academy of Arts, scores high points for its Mediterranean menu and its alfresco location next to a waterfall and Jun Kaneko sculptures. The menu, while not fancy, is ideal: white bean salad with arugula and wilted radicchio ($12.95), hearty sandwiches (feta, tapenade, tomato; chopped salmon steak), a pasta of the day and desserts like chocolate pot de crème and fresh fruit crisp ($5.95 each). At the Academy boutique a few steps away, books, cards, textiles and handmade jewelry make it one of Honolulu's stellar shopping attractions.
5:30 p.m.
8) SUNSET SERENADE
Halekulani's House Without a Key (2199 Kalia Road; 808-923-2311; halekulani.com) is a magnet at sunset. A century-old kiawe tree is gracefully backlighted by the late afternoon sun, the mai tais ($12) are heroic, and the views of the ocean and Diamond Head make you forget about the neighboring high-rises. When the hula dancer Kanoe Miller takes the stage, small talk ceases. It could be a postcard from the 1940s, the heyday of Waikiki. On Ms. Miller's nights off, Debbie Nakanelua fills the stage with her own brand of hula magic.
8 p.m.
9) THE RAW RAGE
Last year, Masaharu Morimoto, a star of the program "Iron Chef America," opened his first Hawaii restaurant, Morimoto Waikiki. Sharing a pool and lounge with the Waikiki Edition hotel, the sleek, high-concept restaurant offers yacht-filled harbor views, indoor-outdoor dining, a fire pit, a sushi bar and a bar. Outdoors, lanterns light poolside picnic tables where urbane networkers linger over designer cocktails and tapas. Coral sculptures and panels of green algae encased in acrylic are a bold interior statement by the designer Thomas Shoos. Raw dishes, such as sashimi, toro tartare and the popular lamb and wagyu carpaccio, are classic Morimoto ($13 to $30), but the noodle dishes ($10 to $18), occasionally too salty and overcooked, are less successful. The wagyu steaks have a reverential following ($50 to $85), and the light-as-air tofu cheesecake ($12) is a favorite.