Fishmonger's stew [The New York Times]

Time: 45 minutes

1 dozen medium-small clams, like littlenecks

1 pound mussels

3/4 pound monkfish or other firm-fleshed white fish, in 1-inch cubes

3/4 pound scrod, flounder, or other soft-fleshed white fish, in 1-inch cubes

3/4 pound squid, in 1/2-inch rings, plus tentacles

1/2 pound bay scallops, optional

Salt and pepper

4 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups medium-diced onions

3 cups medium-diced leeks, rinsed of grit

1/2 cup diced canned tomato

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves, or a few thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

Pinch of saffron, about 1/8 teaspoon

4 garlic cloves, chopped

1 teaspoon paprika

Pinch red pepper flakes

6 cups fish stock, chicken broth, or water

1 pound Yellow Finn or russet potatoes, peeled, in 1/2-inch slices

Garlic-saffron sauce, see recipe.

1. Soak the clams in cold water to remove grit and sand, then drain. Rinse and de-beard the mussels. Put the monkfish, scrod, squid and bay scallops (if using) in separate small bowls. Season the fish lightly with salt and pepper.

2. Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onions and leeks and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato, thyme, bay leaf, saffron, garlic, paprika and red pepper flakes. Season generously with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for another 5 minutes.

3. Turn the heat to high, add the fish stock, chicken broth or water, and bring to a boil. Taste for salt and adjust to taste. Add the potatoes and reduce the heat so they simmer gently until firm-tender, about 10 minutes. (The stew may be prepared to this point up to 2 hours ahead.)

4. To finish the stew, return the heat to a brisk simmer. Add the clams and cook till they open, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mussels, monkfish and scrod and simmer until the mussels open, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the squid and scallops, if using, and cook 1 minute more. Turn off the heat, stir in the garlic-saffron sauce.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.