For some New York designers, runway shows are passe
Updated: 2007-09-10 10:16
NEW YORK - At New York's Soho House boutique hotel, female models show off psychedelic swirls on swinging dresses while milling about on rugs and cushions, tapping on guitars and swaying in a 1960s hippie-inspired set.
The soothing scene at fashion designer Diego Binetti's show is far from the bustle of the runways at the tents in Manhattan's Bryant Parkat fashion week. Some of the newer and edgier designers are eschewing runways as a way to attract attention and save money, fashion insiders say.
"It's a different way to do it. Sometimes people get stuck on fashion being shown on runways," Binetti said at his show.
"It helps the designers sell the clothes. It is good for buyers and lets them feel the collection more. And ... it is less expensive to do."
Such shows, called presentations, are becoming more favored in New York as the number of shows increases -- this season to 257 shows -- and designers compete for attention.
Runway shows at Bryant Park cost as much as $200,000 to stage. Presentations cost a fraction of that sum and can be done on a shoestring budget by using the designer's own studio.
"It has become more popular," said art director Frank de Jesus, a former editor who helped set the stage at Binetti's and other designers shows.
He said presentations helped buyers attend new designers shows they may not usually have time for.
"There is no sitting around waiting, or standing. You can come and do it in your own time and leave," he said. "Because the girls are not in motion it gives you an opportunity to see what they are wearing without them going by you."
STANDING OUT
Some bigger labels also tried offbeat shows. At G-Star Raw's presentation, models spun around on a moving platform in urban denim designs in a heavily choreographed sequence that left the audience gushing.
The presentation format "is something that has always been around and used a lot by European designers," said Lee Trimble, fashion director for Gen Art, which shows emerging designers each season using varied installations. "Now it is more of a trend that is taking hold here."
Presentations this week included Elie Tahari, where buyers sipped champagne looking at designs on mannequins draped over hedges, as well as Jenni Kayne and Jen Kao.
"I'm not out to ... do something huge and fancy," said Kao, who showed her debut fashion week collection in a studio using models and mannequins. "It's about being dramatic but still feeling very comfortable and easy, no pressure, no pushing and shoving like the regular fashion week."
De Jesus said the models also benefited.
"It is not only more exciting for the viewer but the girls can get bored," he said. "It's nice to have them interact with each other. It brings more life to the clothes than a runway."
But while many designers said presentations suited their style and budget, most were not ready to say goodbye to the runway forever just yet.
"These shows will become more prevalent as an idea," Trimble said. "But I don't think you can ever replace the runway show. It is just expanding the paradigm of how to show a collection. It is nice to have some variation."
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