The best jinshi-turned official in Taining was Li Chun-ye (1571-1637), minister of national defense in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644).

Known as Shangshudi, or Residence of the Minister, his home in the county seat is Fu-jian's largest and best-preserved residence of the Ming Dynasty.

Built from 1623 to 1627, it covers more than 4,000 square meters and has 120 rooms made of bricks, stones and wood. Buildings are mainly one-story. Reign titles of two Ming emperors can be seen on wells, which are still used.

Many of Taining's Danxia landforms coexist with water.

About 22 km from the county seat is Shangqing Stream surrounded with Danxia landforms on both sides.

More than 50 km long, the stream passes Danxia landforms, which look like horse hoofs, a human mouth and loving heart. It's ideal for visitors to drift on, seated on bamboo chairs on rafts.

Drifting for about two hours in the uninhabited stream, where wild ducks, white egrets and eagles are spotted from time to time, costs 85 yuan ($14).

"As it is not cold in Taining in winter, drifting is available all year round. And flowers can be found on both sides of the stream in winter," says boatman Li Zonghui.

Relaxation and relief

To people who have long lived in cities, drifting in the stream reminds them of the good old days devoid of heavy air pollution.

"An agricultural county that started focusing on tourism in the mid-1980s, Taining has no industry. Eighty percent of the county is covered with forests and more than 95 percent of the county has the cleanest air, in line with national standards," Dai says.

Taining also boasts clean water in line with national standards. In the hotel we stay in near the county town, cold water can be drunk directly from the tap.

A gigantic, organic fish named Big Male Fish takes advantage of this clean water to flourish in the Dajin Lake.

When we dine in a restaurant, the steamed fish is so big that Xiao Leran, the boy from Sichuan, lowers his head beside the plate to make a vivid comparison showing the huge size of the local delicacy.

Hitting Tea is another delicacy in Taining.

"Tea is mixed with peanuts, sesame and herbs in a container. Then the mixture is broken to pieces with a wooden hammer before boiling water is added," says Zou Jinlan, a young woman selling Hitting Tea in Zhaixia Grand Canyon, 15 km from the county seat.

"It is named Hitting Tea because of the hitting process," Zou explains.

After we become exhausted by the trek to the dragon-shaped canyon, we happen to meet Zou's stall and taste the Hitting Tea sold for 5 yuan per bowl.

The fragrant tea not only quenches our thirst but also satisfies our hunger.