Freshwater fare awaits at the atmospheric Shantang branch of Songhelou, Rebecca Lo discovers.

Shantang Street is high on the list of most visitors' itineraries to Suzhou with good reason. Quaint two-story structures line canals that are crisscrossed by scenic stone bridges. The area's romance is best enjoyed in the evening, when strains of opera can be heard wafting through the trees.

For more than 1,500 years, Shantang's 3.5 km of streets and alleys have been the city's busiest. Its recent restoration has transformed it into a bustling place of commerce, attracting people with its charming combination of cafes, bars and shops selling unique Suzhou products.

We were advised by our taxi driver that folks in Suzhou start dining by 5:30 pm and that we should expect many restaurants to be closing as it was already 7:30 pm when we headed out. Good thing that we didn't pay him any attention, and we proceeded to find the doors to Songhelou open for business as usual.

Located in the western part of the district, this branch of the 2-century-year-old Songhelou is set in a pretty two-story building that blends harmoniously with the surrounding architecture. The entry contains a formal wall that gives the open dining area beyond some much-appreciated privacy from customers arriving and departing.

As we settled into our table, we saw that there was an upper level offering private dining rooms toward the rear. Wooden tables and stools generously filled the airy space with ceramic potted plants and dark wood screens decorating the walls. Ink paintings lined the hallway on the upper level, adding elegance to the monochromatic interiors. The restaurant was comfortably contemporary while giving due respect to traditions at the same time.

We were advised to try the squirrel-shaped Mandarin fish, a Suzhou specialty that has a long history. Legend has it that an emperor arrived in the city and ordered a fish; the chef decided to make something extra special and scored the flesh in a crisscross manner to make it stand up like a squirrel's bristling mane.

Our fish was served in the classic bright red sweet-and-sour sauce, decorated with green cherries for the eyes. Dotted with freshwater shrimp and pine nuts, the crispy flesh rose up in spikes around the body, while its large mouth was wide open and stood upright along with its spiky tail.

We broke off chunks and dipped them into the sauce before popping them into our mouths like candy. The crunchy deep-fried flesh gave way to succulent moistness, with its mild sweetness tempered by the intensity of the sauce. It was like the best combination of street snacking and formal dining, and we gobbled the entire fish up in no time.

I love tofu and wanted to try the tofu in crab sauce as the photo on the menu looked delicious. It was served in a clear glass casserole dish set within an ornate golden basket, which raised my expectations for what I thought would be a simple dish. It was indeed simple, but the freshness of the ingredients transported it to the realm of the spectacular.

Silky tofu and sweet crab with savory roe blended perfectly together for a rich, satisfying dish that easily glides down the throat into happy tummies. Though we didn't order any rice, I wished that I had room in my stomach for the crabs as the sauce was worth mopping up.

Our waitress told us that the cucumber side dish we ordered was unavailable that day, and suggested a local leafy vegetable instead. We went with her choice and wok-fried greens were presented to us that were like spinach crossed with pea shoots. With just a sprinkling of salt, it was summer on a plate in its freshness.

As we were departing, we noticed that Songhelou had takeaway boxes of home-made biscuits featuring peanuts, walnuts and cashews. I couldn't resist a box that ended up as a delicious souvenir reminder of an equally delicious meal.

Leafy Chinese greens (left) and tofu with crab.