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Austro-Hungarian architecture lines Tianjin's Hai River. photos by Laura Morgan / For China Daily |
With a high-speed train primed to take Beijingers in half an hour, Tianjin is a marvel of East meets West, Laura Morgan discovers
Despite its size and historical significance as a port, Tianjin is often overshadowed by its neighbor, Beijing, and the more cosmopolitan port cities of Shanghai and Guangzhou. However, the city has a significant place in Chinese and European history. In 1858 the city became a treaty port and France and Britain established their own concession areas.
They were later joined by other countries such as Germany, Italy and Russia. During the early to mid-20th century, however, all the concessions were dismantled.
The city has retained some of the spirit of its colonial past and successfully blends Western and Asian architecture, making for a fascinating day trip away from Beijing.
Bullet trains shuttle back and forth between the two cities, with the average journey time being just 30 minutes. The best way to explore Tianjin is on foot and armed with a map (available from vendors in the station).
Starting from where Taian Dao intercepts the old financial street of Jiefang Beilu, walk north to glimpse extravagant neo-classical structures with domed roofs and wrought iron balconies.
Originally called Victoria Road, Jiefang Beilu stretches through what were once the British and French concession areas and is an open-air museum displaying European architecture from the turn of the century.
Perched on the corner of Datong Dao and Jiefang Beilu, standing out from the many pillar-supported structures, is the brightly colored former Sino-Russian Bank.
A little further up the road sits the eye-catching former Tianjin Post Office, built in 1878. The only surviving Qing Dynasty post office in China combines Chinese and European architecture and evokes a neo-gothic air.
Opposite sits the former Sino-French Industrial and Commercial Bank - a majestic, curved edifice decorated with pillars that now houses the Bank of China.
Turn left into the beautifully tree-lined street of Chifeng Dao. On it is a treasure trove of boutique stores housed in colonial houses that prepares visitors for the shopping bonanza of Heping Lu.
The old commercial center of Tianjin, Heping Lu, is still a bustling shopping boulevard. Today, it's lined with colonial and modern Chinese buildings chock-full of foreign and domestic brands.
Turning into Binjiang Dao will take you toward Tianjin's famed snack street - a road teeming with vendors serving up traditional Tianjin snacks like pancakes, dough twists and tea soup. And sprouting off the main drag are little paths that lead you toward small eateries selling Tianjin's baozi.
From the snack street it is possible to navigate your way to Shenyang Dao, which houses Tianjin's antique market and meandering passageways.
The quiet hutong around this area are perfect for exploring and getting lost in. Dusty bricks and dark interiors revealing old wooden staircases contrast nicely with the imposingly grand buildings viewed so far en route.
From this area, visitors can make their way to Tianjin's Drum Tower on foot or by taxi. The area around the Drum Tower is made up of reconstructed Qing Dynasty buildings; the sounds of car horns and vendors hawking treats and trinkets fill the air as throngs of people bustle to and fro.
Leaving the Drum Tower area behind and crossing the Jintang bridge transports visitors back to Europe as they enter the former Austro-Hungarian and Italian concessions, a world of gleaming villas and pointy steeples.
The much celebrated and recently renovated section of the concession named "Italian Style Town" stands close to Bei'an Bridge. Those who hold authenticity close to their hearts may wince slightly at the neon signs, faux Italian sculptures and grand manor houses now housing chain restaurants and KTV bars. Explore the backstreets around the area for a more bonafide glimpse of history.
Once you have satiated your appetite for European architecture, head back to Tianjin train station to catch a high-speed bullet train back to Beijing and rest your weary feet.
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A backstreet on which resides a Tianjin eatery that sells local baozi. |
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A street hawker prepares some Tianjin snack food close to the Drum Tower. |
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The former Sino-French Industrial Commercial Bank is now home to the Bank of China. |
(China Daily 02/15/2011) |
