A smart organic wine list makes a new tapas bar a happening place in Beijing, Mike Peters reports.

The attractions of Fu Tapas & Wine Bar start with light.

Inside and out, Fu charms with its playful treatment of illumination, which can come from a clutch of white umbrellas overhead, a chandelier-like cascade of white feathers or a birdlike faux origami.

The interior design gives each of the three floors a distinct look to complement their different functions: the ground floor for twosomes, romantic or more businesslike; level 2 for groups; the top for private parties, with a large dining table and a cozy seating area for pre-dinner cocktails.

It's just one way that Fu is greater than the sum of its considerable parts.

Fu's claim to be China's first all-organic wine bar is an inspiring one, and more practical than one might expect. Organic and "natural" wines are a well-known trend, but the availability of such wines might be unexpected in Beijing. The wine list is extensive but carefully curated by Michael Ohlsson, the nightlife impresario behind Dada and other clubs in Beijing and Shanghai.

Surprised that he was able to build a list of several dozen wines that were organic or biodynamic, I ask Ohlsson if any of the wines were Chinese. Yes, in fact, three are from Xinjiang's Puchang winery - one of several wineries in those wide open spaces of China's west that are setting themselves apart in China with an organic approach. Puchang wines on offer here include a muscat, a cabernet sauvignon and a saperavi, the last a Georgian grape that's gaining a foothold in the region.

Most bottles on the wine list - currently including vintages from Argentina, Australia, Austria, California, Chile, France, Germany, Italy, New Zealand and Spain - are priced under 500 yuan (about $73), and eight are offered by the glass.

Fu has such a range because Ohlsson is getting wines from 10 distributors, for a list that will cycle wines on and off the list as they become available - and pass his taste test.

There are two menus offered on clipboards, "Wines" and "Bites". The latter is Mediterranean small plates created by Fabio Falanga, the Italian chef who has made a gem out of Sanlitun's La Dolce Vita.

At Fu, the tapas are elegant bar nibbles to enjoy with a glass or two of wine and a chat with friends.

The stars on our visit were the fried scallops with yuzu and truffle sauce. The scallops are encased in shreds of pasta kataifi, which gives them the look of a Turkish dessert, and the whole package is a nice meld of textures and flavors. Other hits: 200-days grain-fed beef tenderloin with vegetable tempura and bearnaise sauce, the seared tuna fillet and the gnocchi with chorizo. Potato croquettes with an almond crust, filled with pancetta and goat's cheese, are a nice, warm treat too.

Satisfying soups on the winter menu include pumpkin made rich with pechorino cheese, pancetta bacon and sun-dried tomato; shrimps in savory tomato broth; and truffle-flavored organic mushroom soup.

When your sweet tooth kicks in, there's a nice vanilla semifreddo with minced almond biscuits and strawberries. But if you're serious about dessert, don't miss the chocolate mousse with crunchy pistachio cream.

Falanga plans to update the menu seasonally, so expect a new lineup when warm weather arrives. Meanwhile, founder and co-owner Shaoxian Di (call her Sohan) plans other surprises in the weeks ahead. She recently orchestrated a Beijing Hutong Food Week with her neighbors in the Ju'er Hutong area off Nanluoguxiang, and rumor has it there will be a repeat as soon as February.

While Shanghai and Hong Kong are good wine-bar cities, Beijing has struggled to make the concept work. (In the expat enclave of Sanlitun, some restaurants and bars still even struggle with the concept of wine by the glass, though things are improving.)

Can Fu be the spark that ignites a happy trend? We'll drink to that.

Contact the writer at michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn

If you go

Fu Tapas & Wine Bar

25 Ju'er Hutong, Dongcheng district, Beijing. 18801136781. Closed Mondays.

A variety of tapas, small plates prepared in Mediterranean style, will be rotated seasonally by chef Fabio Falanga. Photos Provided To China Daily