OPINION> Liang Hongfu
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OPINION> Liang Hongfu
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A city's past comes alive in style
By Hong Liang (China Daily)
Updated: 2009-06-26 07:53
All those years I spent in Shanghai, I had always wished to stay at the Ruijin Hotel, even if it were only for a few nights. But regrettably, I could never find an excuse to do that. This time in Shanghai, I decided to make the splash, and indulge in a spell of nostalgia that is like opiate to the weary minds of men my age. I believe that the majority of the guests chose to stay at the Ruijin not because of its opulence or facilities, which are only adequate, but rather for its historical ambience, which it has in spade. Unlike those old grand hotels of Asia, such as the Peninsula, or better known as the Pen, in Hong Kong, the Raffles in Singapore or the Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok, Ruijin was built by Benjamin Morris, a swashbuckling British merchant, in the early 20th century as his family residence in the form of an English manor house in a lush green compound in the center of the city. Little is known about Morris other than that he bred and raced greyhounds and founded China's earliest English-language daily newspaper, North China Daily News, which ceased publication a long time ago. Judging by the scale and design of his property, one has the impression that he was a tremendously wealthy man with expansive taste. The present owner of the property and operator of the hotel, a company controlled by the Shanghai municipal government, has done a creditable job of preserving the red brick structures of the principal house and the other buildings in their original form. But there is little else to remind visitors of the property's former owner. Even if you're not a history buff or someone, like me, given to nostalgia, you can still find many things of delight in the Ruijin compound. The beauty of the architecture of the old buildings fanning a spacious courtyard is pleasing to the eye and mind. So is the stone arch that leads to a garden, which has become a hot favorite for wedding parties and other corporate social functions. Ruijin, of course, is not the only landmark in Shanghai that recreates the graceful lifestyle of the past. If you, like me, find the imposing buildings on the Bund too stiflingly formal and officious, you'd love the Red House on Heng Shan Road.
It may not be as well preserved as Ruijin, but it possesses an aura of romance that is unique among all old buildings in Shanghai. It was in the lofty halls of this three-story red brick building that many memorable songs sung by some of the most famous singers in the 1920s and 1930s were recorded on vinyl disks that are still cherished by many music lovers and collectors. Someone showed me pictures of the handsome building of the Donghu Hotel, which is managed by the same group that manages Ruijin. But it lost its appeal after I learned that it was the former residence of a gangster boss. There are plenty other places to go in Shanghai to satisfy one's quest for nostalgia. Rows of elegant apartment buildings that housed the Shanghai elites of those days when the city was known around the world, for better or worse, as adventurers' paradise continue to stand along the tree-lined streets in what was then the French Concession. Some of the best examples of such buildings can be found on Ruijin Second Road, where the hotel is located. Many more are located on the adjacent roads and alleys, which have also become home to numerous specialty shops, fashion boutiques and charming cafes. My personal favorite is 1933 on Maoming. I have no idea what's so significant about that particular year. But it's a place where you can spend a relaxing Saturday afternoon with friends. E-mail: jamesleung@chinadaily.com.cn |
