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Distance makes heart grow fonder when it's football

By David Bartram (China Daily)
Updated: 2009-10-29 11:12

Anyone moving to a foreign country for the first time is bound to be a little nervous. In the days before the big switch, you'll likely have all sorts of questions that need answering. Am I going to like the food? Will I make new friends? Are people going to understand anything I say?

But when I first arrived in China around a year ago, I wasn't worried about any of this. In fact, I only had one concern: How am I going to watch football?

Growing up in the United Kingdom, I've been spoiled. As one of the biggest football markets in the world, matches are scheduled for prime time TV viewing. I could always look forward to a lazy Sunday afternoon in the pub watching Manchester United or Liverpool, or an evening kick-off for European matches after work during the week.

Watching these games was not something I wanted to stop doing just because I'd moved halfway across the world. There was a big problem. In China, the time difference means that these evening kick-offs actually start at 3.45 am - the middle of the night.

I needed a strategy. With work starting at 9 am, I decided to start sleeping at 7 pm, so I could get a full eight hours before heading out for the game, then go to work afterward.

It seemed simple, but when the alarm sounded at 3 am it was a struggle to drag myself out of bed. Determined not to miss the action, I got dressed and set off - weary eyed - to find a taxi.

When I arrived I was surprised. I wasn't the only midnight football fan. Along with a couple of friends - both hardened supporters - the bar was packed with Liverpool fans who were there to support their team against Real Madrid.

With each Liverpool goal (they won 4-0) a huge cheer erupted. Throughout the match a large group of Chinese fans sang songs about their heroes - often in perfect Liverpudlian accents. Other supporters discussed the game over a beer.

Not everyone was so happy. In the corner a tired barman complained to me as I ordered a drink. "I'm normally in bed by midnight," he said. "You football fans are crazy."

Crazy maybe, but along with the excitement came a sense of community. Only the most dedicated football followers would sacrifice sleep for a big match. Back home supporting a football team is a fashion statement for many. Politicians talk about football to appear in touch with common people.

But in this small bar in Beijing I'd found a truer type of football fan. These fans loved the game so much they'd watch it whatever the time.

In many ways getting up in the middle of the night was as much a part of the experience as watching the game itself. Without that, it would just be another football match on TV.

Swept up by the atmosphere, I almost forgot that it was now approaching 6 am. With a blow of the whistle, the referee signaled the end of the game - and for me, the start of a long day.

I'm used to rolling out of bed a few minutes before work, skipping breakfast, and frantically dashing to the office. But as I walked into the office that morning, I'd already been awake for six hours.

While it was a little more difficult to focus on work after staying up all night, thoughts of the game kept me awake during the day - as did the prospect of another match that night. So, after work I went straight to bed, ready to do it all again.

In a few weeks I'll be returning to the UK for Christmas - the time of year spent with family eating turkey, giving presents, and, of course, watching football. But I might just miss the 3 am taxi rides and midnight fans of Beijing. After all, where's the fun in watching football at a normal time?